Saturday, March 10, 2012

Gastronomical Forcast: Old World Bakery brings a little bit of France to Appalachia


                There’s something special about fresh-baked goods. The rich, full aroma of homemade bread—or other delectable pastries—filling your nose invites, perhaps, happy memories of loved-ones or just damn good food. Besides homemade yummies, an awesome local bakery is the next best thing, and sometimes is the only place to get, say, made-from-scratch, artisan French pastries and breads.
                Introducing the Old World Bakery. Located on the second-floor of the Merrimon Square shopping plaza at the corner of Merrimon Avenue and Edgewood Road, the Old World Bakery has relocated from Fletcher, NC, to the old Créme Patisserie space.
                Owned by baker Jacques Delaunay and his wife Miriam, the bakery is stocked with fresh-made-daily breads, including sourdough, French brioche and Jewish challah—all excellent choices for homemade French toast. In addition to breads, the bakery also boasts an assortment of dessert pastries, cookies and croissants. I tried the chocolate lover’s brownie,  the Madeleine, the chocolate croissant, the coconut macaroon and the Napoleon.
                First tasting was the Napoleon. Also known as the “Mille-Feuille,” this pastry is made with layers of flaky puff pastry and thick cream. The top is glazed with a firm black-and-white marbled icing. This flaky pastry was satisfyingly sweet and rich with a pleasant chewy pull to it. Highly recommended.
                Next up was the Madeleine. This simple yet elegant petite cake has a slight shell shape to it and is dusted with confectioner’s sugar. The cake is light, fluffy and tender with a lemon flavor. Again, like the Napoleon, the Madeleine wasn’t overpoweringly sweet like too many of its American counterparts typically are. With a texture and flavor profile like a cross between a lady finger and a lemon pound cake, this unassuming little pastry is great paired with coffee.
                Now for the coconut macaroon; this dessert is probably a familiar one. The chewy, moist shredded coconut was baked to a lightly crisp golden brown and dressed with confectioner’s sugar. Although it had a familiar flavor, too, it was set apart from the familiar by its balanced sweetness, a present yet mild coconut flavor and a hint of lemon tartness that radiated in the back of the mouth after each bite.
                Next was the chocolate croissant. The pastry was light and flaky with a full, buttery flavor and had a pleasant chew and crunchy crust. Inside was a delicious bitter-sweet chocolate spread. But, the chocolate was on the skimpy side, and I would like to see a little more sauce spread  in it next time.
                Last on my sampling platter was the chocolate lover’s brownie. Quite frankly, I’m not big on brownies—unlike my fiancé, who’s a self-proclaimed brownie connoisseur—and I was going to pass this up for one of the tarts or an éclair, but I’m happy I didn’t! This dessert is devilishly decadent and chocolaty. The top is iced with a firm chocolate frosting, and the brownie is studded with chunks of chocolate. Each bite had a satisfying mouthfeel that was rich, dense, creamy and velvety.
                In addition to breads and sweets, Old World Bakery also offers fresh coffee and a small list of breakfast and lunch items. Everything is reasonably priced, and there’s also a yesterday’s bread rack with an assortment of sale loaves. Located at 640 Merrimon Ave., the bakery is open Monday through Saturday, from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. I can only hope that French macaroons will find their way onto one of the bakery’s dessert trays, but until then, treat yourself to French decadence. Bon Appétit! 

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